Finishing With Oxford Pt 1

Written by: James Krueger On: Nov 4th, 2021

I think we are going to do one or two more blogs on finishing …. rather than this one being an opinion or introductory blog as I’ve done in the past, I’d like to just go through the process of finishing a guitar using the Oxford Nitrocellulose finishing products available here at Solo Guitars.  For simplicity’s sake, I think we will just complete a Tele style guitar in a solid colour, any colour.  In case you are wondering, I have had a few people approach me in the past couple visits to Solo and ask about this process …. so for those of you with finishing experience, sorry, you will be bored…for the rest, let’s get started!

Obviously, the neck and the body are different.  The neck is simple as it is maple or at least a maple-like wood with a rosewood board.  I start by taping off the surface of the fretboard (Hosco Masking Tape Set) making sure to get in tight to the frets and trimming the tape along the edge of the fretboard.  You want the lacquer to cover the side of the fret-board, just not the top.  I attach a spray stick to the heel of the neck which allows me to spray the entire neck while holding the stick, and then to hang the neck for drying.  Typically I use a piece of plywood and screw that to the flat part of the neck which will sit in the pocket of the body.

Using the Oxford Sanding Sealer, I will give the neck 2 coats of sealer being careful to not over spray (causing runs) but to ensure 100% coverage on the wood.  I would let that dry at least 24 hours and then sand with nothing rougher than 320 grit sandpaper.  If I am not satisfied with the surface, I might give it another good coat of sealer, dry for 24 hours and re-sand.  I sand gently and with the grain, and then remove the dust with a tack cloth or cheese cloth.  If I am satisfied, I will move on to the lacquer.  The difference between sanding sealer and lacquer is simply an additive in the sealer which allows for easier sanding…it is a product the purists do not like to use, but it makes life easier.  The other really great thing with Oxford, is that they supply 2 nozzles for the aerosol cans which give you a choice in spray patterns.  One is a typical round pattern and the other a flatter pattern…either is good and you must decide which you like to use for each application.

Now we can proceed with either one of the tinted lacquers available from Oxford, or just a clear gloss.  When using a tinted lacquer (like the Neck Amber, Vintage Amber or the Nectarine), spray sparingly and as evenly as possible over the entire neck.  Let that dry and then respray until you reach the colour you want.  Be careful about sanding between these coats, as you may make the tint uneven.  I know some people use 0000 steel wool at this point to break the surface of the lacquer a bit before respraying, but you have to be very careful again about leaving that fine metal dust from the wool…it can mess up your finish and cause some discoloration.  When you have achieved the colour you want, you need to let the lacquer dry for at least 24 hours again before re-spraying, and in the case of multiple coats, probably 48 hours plus.  I know it feels like the lacquer is dry after a few hours, but the thinners used to transport the lacquer to the surface must properly ‘flash’ off, so you do not have thinner trapped under the surface of the next coat….it will cause problems.

We now have the colour we want on the neck, and we have let it dry for a couple days.  A very light sanding with 400 or finer sandpaper is probably called for at this point, again being very careful to just break the surface of the lacquer.  You should have a nice even gloss at this point, and the target of the 400 is to dull the surface for the next coats to adhere to.  The amount of lacquer you use now will either just protect the tinted lacquer you used before, or you can add several coats to give the neck that deep gloss you see on certain guitar brands like PRS.  Again, you are not adding colour at this point, just gloss (Oxford Clear High Gloss Lacquer), so whether you use a couple coats (minimum) or several more, you need to allow drying time between.  You shouldn’t need much sanding between these coats, but the purists will probably suggest just that …. particularly on acoustic instruments where the finish needs to be as thin as possible.  Once you have achieved the finish you want, allow ample drying time again, from 24 hours to a few days.

So here we are …. a beautiful ambered neck with a couple coats of clear gloss to protect the amber.  The final step will be the wet sanding and buffing.  Depending on what process you wish to follow, you can either start wet-sanding the finish (starting at 600 or 800 grit and ending up at 1500-2000 grit) or you can use buffing compounds or both (I use both).  The Oxford lacquers work well with these products, and both will take you to an excellent gloss.  This process, however, is a little slower, and if this is your first guitar, you might want to go with buffing compounds (your choice though).  Solo Guitars can supply you with the Oxford Medium and Fine compounds and depending on the time and effort you put in, your final product will reflect just that.  Again, a shortcut would be to use 0000 steel wool, and for quick jobs and/or beginners, it is not a bad option. One of the really great things about using Oxford, is that they have maximized the amount of actual solids in their lacquers, but because these are aerosol cans, the final finish will not be too heavy which Is good. The buffing is a labor-intensive job, and the results are based on the effort you put in.  It’s normal to see some swirl marks or streaks in your early finishes, and they can be removed with more work, so don’t be too hard on yourself.  Necks are easier than bodies, because all the surfaces are rounded except maybe for the headstock, and it’s small (so therefore easier).  The neck is good practice for the body!

That’s it!  You are all finished with the neck.  You can give the neck a final rub down and admire the work you have done.  At this point, any guitar polish should work for the final buff, or there are products on the market for that by 3M or McGuiars.  Of course, you still must remove the tape from the fretboard and clean up the rough edge left from the lacquers at the edge of the tape (I usually use a piece of fine sandpaper for this, being careful to not scratch the lacquer).  There are a few things to take note of … always spray in a well-ventilated area (not inside your house, the fumes are toxic and flammable) and at a relatively decent temperature.  Do not spray if it is too hot or too cold, nor if the humidity is extremely high.  All these things will affect the finish in a bad way.  Make sure you are wearing a proper mask for the protection of your lungs, and safety glasses for the protection of your eyes.  You really don’t want to ingest any lacquers into your body in any way, either with spraying or sanding.  The two things you need to remember are safety first and patience second. Always allow ample drying time, no matter how anxious you are to see the final product.

Next blog, we will go through the finishing process on the body itself, so remember, safety first and patience second …. patience being the big secret for good finishes.