Description
The Nut and Saddle Sander is designed to hold a nut or saddle so you can create a perfectly vertical flat surface. Adjustment screws set the amount you want to remove, and in seconds the saddle or nut piece is squared up.
After inserting the nut or saddle into the spring loaded unit, simply slide the sander across a strip of sandpaper attached to a flat surface. Once the wheels start turning, you’re done!
To adjust the amount of material you wish to remove, use the two adjustment screws. The two knobs can be adjusted independently to precisely adjust the tilt of an acoustic bridge saddle.
This tool is typically used after shaping a saddle or nut to its final shape.
Features
- 3D-printed from durable PLA material, ensuring strength and ease of handling
- Steel reinforcement rod in the clamp
- Tapered springs
- Low-profile thumb screws
- Updated height adjustment screws
- Increment lines on top of the sander for easier height measurement and projection control
- 6 perimeters and 50% infill, providing superior strength and resilience
- Has two sets of adjustment holes: close for nuts, wide for saddles
- Perfectly flat results
- Can be used with both acoustic saddles and nuts
: Solo Pro Nut and Saddle Sander
: SL-NSSND
UPC: 842561017710
Dave Solo (verified buyer) –
I tried one of these gadgets in the past from a “different source,” and was quite unimpressed. Let’s just say that particular one was manufactured by someone who had no idea how it was intended to be used, based on how it was pre-assembled. The gap between the bottom and the sanding surface was neither square nor adjustable.
This SOLO Pro Nut and saddle sander, on the other hand, works reliably and saves a ton of time. You clamp the nut or saddle in question in, with the part you want to disappear hanging below the ‘chassis,’ which rides *just* above the surface of a level bench when you roll the device back and forth like a kid’s toy.
There are two locking screws above the piece to be sanded that keep it from being pushed back up against the pressure you exert by sanding, so once you tighten everything with hand pressure using the excellent knurled knobs and use the locking nuts properly, you can “set it and forget it.” The part you expose below the clamp for removal may be square or not, depending on your need, if you want more taken off the treble side, for instance.
The body of the hefty unit is made out of what appears to be HDPE or something much like it in terms of weight and robustness. it also grips the piece securely, with the help of the two positioning screws located above, as mentioned before. Those screws each have two positions and are marked for reference in case you want to make small adjustments as you perfect your action.
I use woodworker’s 2-sided tape to secure a 2″x 8″ ( 50 mm x 200 mm) approx. strip of rolled sandpaper in about 180 grit onto my workbench and start moving the apparatus back and forth, stopping to brush off the done or TUSQ dust that accumulates so quickly. pretty soon, the piece is within about an eighth of an inch (3 mm) of where I want it and the wheels come into contact with the bench, squaring up the bottom of the piece right to left and forward to back.
Within just a few minutes, I have a completely square, even bottom that fits into a corresponding bridge or nut slot with maximum tone connection and security.
It works far better than I could do it by hand, and allows me to sculpt the top of the saddle as I need to to achieve radius, compensation and intonation without compromise, and then make the action work by lowering the entire saddle exactly as it needs to be.
Dave Solo – (No relation, as far as I know.) Michigan
Kyle (verified buyer) –
Makes easy work of sanding down saddles and have them square and flat.